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Friday 19th 10 2007 12:00:00 AM

Pictures and words by Andy Main

Logie Head rocks

Last weekend a car of three headed for the only dry place in Scotland the Moray Coast. Darkness fell as we set off on what was to be a troublesome journey and we headed for the bridge. Apone which was a knarly jam was found, entertainment was provided by a coach load of pissed football supporters merrily reliving themselves at the side of the road and one by one running after there disappearing transport. Just as we got to the toll booths Wee Mark who was meant to be heading to dungeon hill called lo and behold he was in the next one along also heading north with talk of Binnein Shuas and a possible rendezvous on Sunday. An eventful journey, a puncture, fun with air hoses, loads of wrong turns and the misty scenery of Aberdeen final led us to our camp at about 1am, we pitched up under cornflake wall at Cummingston and got stuck into the bouldering.

After dondering about for ages looking for a cooked breakfast we finally got some climbing in. After our first route we were joined by Mark and his crew of wiper-snappers; Dunacan, Scot and Warren, who had retreated form the wet and misty hills. Cummingston provided some entertainment with a few routes getting done, includeing the very fine "left" and "right". But the rock was damp and sweaty and Logie was calling.

Logie is an easy 20 min wal
k round a pleasant bay that leads to the pinnacle, over one last ridge and the main climbing is reached. aAbeautiful fin of rock reminiscent of the Souter, but friendlier, open, more cracked and having that sandstone grippy-ness. The lethargic mood of the morning was forgotten and all of the best routes on the fist wall were quickly dispatched.

Darkness soon descended but
the fun was not over, a heroic gathering effort by myself, Sandy and Neil produced and cheery blaze of drift wood, which eliminated the frantic efforts of the young ins attempting to get as many routes in as possible. The barbby was fired up and a great feast of 1/4 pounders with bacon, brie and cherry tomatoes was had and for desert, wasted bouldering!

The next day we rose with the dawn and the low tide heading for the impeccable rock of the star area, Neil and Warren both had good leads on "Rising Star" E0? "Fallen Star", "Moray Ele" and "Sea Pink" were also quickly dispatched, with some talk of "Dark Star" but wetness dissuading.

We were chased away by the rising tide and headed back to nail some of the harder routes on the first 2 sections, some E points were had as I shoot up the fantastic "No hands crack", knee bar rest in the middle!!!!! Mark did "Dave's Dilemma" and Duncan "Sunny Side Direct" his first E1!

We left with the sun setting on the pinnacle as Mark and Duncan attempted one last route. Well it was actually like 4.30 but good photo to end on. Awesome weekend, quality climbing and some good crack. Will need to head back soon "Holy Ground " E2 looks insanely hard/good/ improbable climbing and "Dark Star" is just begging to be climbed.

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